Hannelore Schmatz anali wokwera mapiri waku Germany yemwe anali mayi wachinayi kukachita phiri la Everest. Adagwa ndikumwalira pa Okutobala 2, 1979, pomwe amabwerera kuchokera kokacheza ku Everest kudzera njira yakumwera. Schmatz anali mkazi woyamba komanso nzika yoyamba yaku Germany kumwalira pamapiri a Everest.
Kukwera komaliza kwa Hannelore Schmatz
Mu 1979, Hannelore Schmatz adamwalira atatsika atafika pamsonkhano wa Mount Everest. Schmatz anali paulendo wopita ku South East Ridge ndi amuna awo, a Gerhard Schmatz, pomwe anamwalira mamita 27,200. A Gerhard Schmatz anali mtsogoleri wazoyenda, kenako wazaka 8,300, komanso bambo wachikulire kukachita msonkhano wa Everest. Paulendo womwewo anali American Ray Genet, yemwenso adamwalira akutsika pamwambowu.
Atatopa chifukwa chokwera, anali atayima bivouac pamtunda wa mamitala 28,000 pamene usiku unali kuyandikira, ngakhale malangizo awo a Sherpa amawalimbikitsa kuti asayime - Sherpa ndi amodzi mwamitundu ya ku Tibetan yomwe imachokera ku mapiri ambiri a Nepal ndi Himalaya.
Ray Genet adamwalira usiku womwewo ndipo a Sherpa ndi Schmatz adakhumudwa, koma adaganiza zopitiliza kukhala kwawo. Kenako atali mamita 27,200, Schmatz watopa adakhala pansi, nati "Madzi, Madzi" kwa Sherpa ndipo adamwalira. Sungdare Sherpa, m'modzi mwa otsogolera a Sherpa, adatsalira ndi thupi lake, ndipo chifukwa chake, adataya zala zake zazikulu ndi zala.
Atatopa, adagwidwa ndi mdima pamtunda wa mamita 27,200 pamunsi pa msonkhanowo, Schmatz ndi wina wokwera pamwamba adasankha bivouac mdima utagwa. A Sherpas adamulimbikitsa iye ndi wokwera ku America, a Ray Gennet, kuti atsike, koma adakhala pansi kuti apumule osadzukanso. Pa nthawiyo anali mkazi woyamba kumwalira pamapiri a Everest.
Thupi la Schnatz ku Rainbow Valley
Hannelore Schmatz adakhala m'modzi mwa matupi ambiri ku South East Ridge a Phiri la Everest, lotchedwa "Rainbow Valley" chifukwa cha kuchuluka kwa matupi onse ovala zovala zokongola komanso zowala za chipale chofewa zomwe zimapezekabe kumeneko.
Thupi la Genet linasowa ndipo silinapezeke, koma kwa zaka zambiri, mabwinja a Schmatz amatha kuwonedwa ndi aliyense amene akufuna kuyitanitsa Everest kudzera njira yakumwera. Thupi lake linali lowuma atakhala pansi, atatsamira chikwama chake maso ali otseguka komanso tsitsi likuwomba mphepo, pafupifupi mita 100 pamwamba pa Camp IV.
Paulendo wa 1981 a Sungdare Sherpa anali wowongolera gulu la okwera. Poyamba adakana chifukwa chotaya zala zake ndi zala zawo munthawi yaulendo wa 1979 koma adalipira zowonjezera ndi Chris Kopcjynski. Pakukwera pansi adadutsa thupi la Schmatz ndipo Kopcjynski adadzidzimuka akuganiza kuti ndi hema ndipo adati “Sitinakhudze. Nditha kuwona kuti adakali ndi wotchi yake. ”
Tsoka pambuyo pa tsoka
Mu 1984, oyang'anira apolisi a Yogendra Bahadur Thapa ndi a Sherpa Ang Dorje adagwa pomwe amafunafuna kuti atenge thupi la Schmatz paulendo wapolisi waku Nepalese. Thupi la Schmatz lidawoneka likudalira chikwama chake atazizira pamalo pomwepo ndi maso.
Kukumbukira thupi lachisanu la Schmatz
Chris Bonington adamuwona Schmatz patali mu 1985, ndipo adayamba kulakwitsa thupi lake ndi hema mpaka atayang'anitsitsa. Mwachidule Chris Bonington adakhala munthu wodziwika bwino kwambiri kukachita nawo phiri la Everest mu Epulo 1985, ali ndi zaka 50. Adampambana Richard Bass, yemwe adachita nawo zomwezo kumapeto kwa nyengo yomweyi ali ndi zaka 55, wazaka zisanu kuposa Bonington. Mbiri idapambanitsidwa kangapo kuyambira pamenepo.
Lene Gammelgaard, mkazi woyamba waku Scandinavia kuti akafike pachimake cha Everest, akugwira mawu oyendetsa mapiri aku Norway komanso mtsogoleri wazoyendetsa Arne Næss Jr. Kukwera Kwambiri: Nkhani Ya Mkazi Yopulumuka Tsoka la Everest (1999), lomwe limafotokoza zaulendo wake wa 1996. Malingaliro a Næss ndi awa:
“Siko kutali tsopano. Sindingathe kuthawa olondera oyipa. Pafupifupi mamita 100 pamwamba pa Camp IV amakhala atatsamira paketi yake, ngati kuti akupuma pang'ono. Mzimayi watsegula maso komanso watsitsi lake likuwomba mphepo iliyonse. Ndi mtembo wa Hannelore Schmatz, mkazi wa mtsogoleri wapaulendo waku 1979 waku Germany. Adachita mwachidule, koma adamwalira akutsika. Komabe zimangokhala ngati anditsata ndi maso ake ndikamadutsa. Kukhalapo kwake kumandikumbutsa kuti tafika paphiripo. ”
Mphepoyo pamapeto pake idawomba zotsalira za Schmatz m'mphepete ndi pansi pa Kangshung Face - mbali yakum'mawa kwa phiri la Everest, limodzi lammbali mwa China paphiri.
Mitembo yakufa pa Mount Everest
George Mallory
George Herbert Leigh Mallory anali wokweza mapiri ku England yemwe adatenga nawo gawo pamaulendo atatu oyamba aku Britain opita ku Mount Everest, koyambirira kwa ma 1920. Wobadwira ku Cheshire, Mallory adadziwitsidwa kukwera miyala ndi kukwera mapiri ngati wophunzira ku Winchester College. Mu Juni 1924, Mallory adamwalira atagwa kumpoto kwa nkhope ya Mount Everest, ndipo thupi lake lidapezeka mu 1999.
Ngakhale Mount Everest ndi phiri lodziwika bwino lomwe lilinso ndi chidwi koma osati chodziwika bwino. Okwera mapiri ena amva “kukhalapo” kumene kumatsatiridwa posapita nthaŵi ndi maonekedwe a mwamuna atavala zida zakale zokwerera. Mwamuna uyu adzakhala ndi okwera phiri kwakanthawi, ndikupereka chilimbikitso cha kukwera kolimba komwe kuli patsogolo, asanazimiririkenso. Zikuganiziridwa kuti uwu ndi mzimu wa wokwera mapiri wa ku England Andrew Irvine yemwe anasowa pamodzi ndi George Mallory pamapiri a kumpoto, ku Tibet, 1924. Thupi lake silinapezekepo.
Tsewang Paljor: Nsapato Zobiriwira
Tsewang Paljor adamwalira pamodzi ndi ena asanu ndi awiri m'nyengo yomwe imadziwika kuti Mount Everest Disaster mu 1996. Akutsika paphiripo, adakodwa ndi chimphepo chamkuntho ndipo adamwalira chifukwa chowonekera. Awiri mwa omwe adakwera nawo nawonso adamwalira. Nsapato zobiriwira zobiriwira zomwe adavala zidamupatsa dzina loti "Green Boots." Thupi lake limagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati cholembera mpaka 2014 pomwe adasowa mosadziwika. Wokwera wina adatenga kanema wamthupi la Paljor usanathe. Mutha kuwonera apa.
Marko Lihteneker
Anali wokwera phiri ku Slovenia, yemwe adamwalira ali ndi zaka 45 pakubwera kwake kuchokera ku Mount Everest. Malinga ndi omwe adamuwona komaliza, Lihteneker anali kuyesa kuthetsa mavuto ndi mpweya wake. Gulu lachi China lomwe lidakwera lidakumana naye ndikumupatsa tiyi, koma samakhoza kumwa. Anapezeka atamwalira pamalo omwewo pa Meyi 5, 2005.
Francys ndi Sergei Arsentiev: "Kukongola Kogona" kwa Mount Everest, Rainbow Valley
Mu Meyi 1998, a Mountaineers Francys ndi Sergei Arsentiev adaganiza zokwezera Everest popanda mpweya wa m'mabotolo, ndipo adachita bwino. Francys ndiye mayi woyamba waku America kutero, koma iye kapena mwamuna wake sadzamaliza kubadwa kwawo. Pobwerera kuchokera kumtunda, komabe, anali atatopa, ndipo adakhala usiku wina kumtunda opanda mpweya uliwonse.
Nthawi ina tsiku lotsatira, Sergei anapatukana ndi mkazi wake. Adabwerera kumsasa, koma adabwerera kukamupeza atazindikira kuti kulibe. Anthu awiri okwera mapiri adakumana ndi a Francys ndikuwapempha kuti amupulumutse, akunena kuti akudwala mpweya komanso chisanu. Koma panalibe chilichonse chomwe akanatha kuchita ndipo Sergei kunalibe komwe angawoneke. Thupi lake linapezeka patatha chaka chimodzi, mwatsoka, adatsika pa shelufu yotsetsereka kwinaku akufunafuna mkazi wake ndipo adamwalira mumtsinje wopanda dzina pansi pa Phiri la Everest. Anasiya mwana wamwamuna.
Chifukwa chiyani okwera awiriwa sanathe kupulumutsa moyo wa Francys Arsentiev?
Lan Woodall South yemwe anali African Mountaineer adatsogolera gulu kukwera Mount Everest m'mbuyomu. Iye ndi mnzake wokwera naye Cathy O'Dowd analinso pa Everest pamene anakumana ndi bwenzi lawo Francis Arsentiev. Woodall adamupeza akadali moyo ndipo adathamangira kumupulumutsa mwachangu.
Woodall ndi Cathy adadziwa kuti alibe kuthekera koti amubwezeretse Frances pansi pa phirilo, koma sangathe kumusiya yekha kuti apitilize kukwera. Pofuna kupeza chitonthozo cham'maganizo, amasankha kutsika kuti akathandizidwe. Frances adadziwa kuti sangakhale ndi moyo mpaka zowonjezera zitafika. Anachonderera kuti: “Musandisiye chonde! musandisiye. ”
M'mawa wachiwiri, gulu lina lokwera mapiri litadutsa Frances, adamupeza atamwalira. Palibe amene akanatha kumuthandiza. Aliyense ankadziwa kuti zinali zowopsa kunyamula mtembowo m'munsi mwa phiri la kumpoto kwa Phiri la Everest chifukwa chaphompho la thanthwe.
Kwa zaka 9 zotsatira, mtembo wakufa wa Frances udakhala m'malo opitilira 8 zikwi kumtunda kwa phiri la Everest, udakhala chizindikiro chodabwitsa. Aliyense amene anakwera Phiri la Everest kuchokera pano amatha kuwona chovala chake chofiirira chokwera mapiri ndi mtembo wake womwe umawonekera pachisanu.
Shirya Shah-Klorfine
Shirya Shah-Klorfine adabadwira ku Nepal, koma adakhala ku Canada nthawi yomwe amwalira. Malinga ndi malipoti komanso kuyankhulana kwa omwe amamuwongolera, anali wocheperako, wosadziwa zambiri, yemwe adauzidwa kuti abwerere ndikuchenjeza kuti atha kufa. Pambuyo pake adafika pamwamba, koma adamwalira akutsika chifukwa chotopa. Amaganizira kuti mpweya wake umatha. Mosiyana ndi ena okwera pantchitoyi, thupi la Shah-Klorfine pamapeto pake lidachotsedwa pa Mount Everest. Mbendera yaku Canada idakutidwa thupi lake.
Pali matupi enanso mazana omwe mwina sangapezeke chifukwa chotsetsereka komanso nyengo yosadziwika.
